Monday, March 14, 2022

TO HWANGE AND DOWN TO KARIBA DAM

To Hwange NP    210km.      2nd March 2022

Fred left for Cape Town today, so we departed after breakfast and said our good byes after three weeks on the road. 
Went to Robyn's camp the long way around, and the wrong way around, 210km and six hours of driving and didn't  see any animals and we are the only one's in the camp. ($70)

Left early in the morning for a camp just outside the east end of the park 180km away. Arrived at Tuskers campsite ($10pppn) and once again the only one's there and a real gem, with a lodge nearby with a swimming pool and a hide which we are allowed to use.
The narrow roads have been rough and the tar roads are a patchwork of potholes and donkeys and goats wondering around aimlessly, much like myself.
Meanwhile at the hide they throw down salt which the elephant's can't get enough of, at one stage there were over fifty milling about some playing in the water and others taking a mud bath. The days are very hot but luckily we have had some good cloud cover which helps tremendously. 
At around 6pm the camp guard told us of a lion kill nearby, so we all bailed into the Troopy and it was right next to the main tar road , twenty feet inside the bush. Two lioness killed a fully grown Kudu and the seven cubs were trying to eat it as the mothers watched there feeble attempt at trying to eat it. It had hardly been touched, then suddenly the one lioness went over and dragged it a metre more into the bush and then was joined by the other one and then started tearing into it and you could hear the teeth breaking into the skin and bones. It was getting dark but luckily had a torch and was able to watch for a little longer and then headed back to camp, where they had started a fire for me for the nightly braai.

The following morning after coffee we shot back to the kill only to find the entire Kudu devoured and someone attached a rope to it's horns and then on to an anchor like device.  
Spent time at the hide just watching the elephant's again as they come and go in huge families all day long. The swimming pool was nice and refreshing and with no guests I lounged around all afternoon. 
The camp gard made another nice fire for our steak braai, the Mopani wood is the best you can get ,the coals are still there in the morning.

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TO MAABWE CAMP   150KM   5TH MARCH 2022

I like to leave early in the morning in case of any misfortune along the way, cause over here I misjudge the distances and the time it takes to get there cause every kilometer of every road is different.
Leaving the camp we stopped at the Kudu again to find it had moved a few meters and the rope and anchor were gone but the horns still on the carcass. Stopped for diesel, but they had no fuel, so I continued on as I had a full spare tank. A dumb move. Took about five hours to get up to Maabwe camp which is near the beginning of the top of the dam.
Got there only to find the gate locked and bell not working ,so scaled the fence and surprised the owner, Richard who was most welcoming and took us to our camp spot and then brought over some nice Mopani wood  with some complimentary Breem which he catches in the lake and really hit the spot as we hadn't  eaten all day.
We decided to stay another day as it is such a nice camp and the ablutions are the best we have encountered so far , as they built it for themselves when they started the camp and now it is for the campers. Margot brought over some freshly baked scones for breakfast and then took us on a tour of the camp and another fishing camp over the hill.
They then invited us over for a braai at their house, which turned out to be a most enjoyable evening with lots of information being given for North eastward travel and Richard's life around the world, very inspiring. He cooked a mean steak and the Nederburg Duet and plenty of beer was consumed with lots of laughs.



MONDAY 7TH MARCH 2022
DEPART TO CHIZIRIRA NP    116km

The roads are bad and average 25kmph and then from the turn off up to the park is 9km and it took an hour going up the mountain. The campsite is bare bones , has a Lapa and is on the 500ft cliff edge, not a big deal over here, the edge of the Lapa roof is in line withe cliff edge. The grass is tall and on a short drive around the park weren't able to see anything, so just enjoyed the solitude of the campsite and the night stars after cooking up some pasta. 



Tuesday 8th March 2022
Depart for Matsudona NP.       250km

Going back down the mountain was even slower and passed all the school kids in their nice pale green uniforms walking to school . I am amazed at how many primary schools are along the roads in these rural areas, which is a good thing Mugabe did as you find their English and penmanship is rather good surprisingly.  The Zimbabwean's are really friendly and seem way better off than the South Africans in the rural areas and townships.
Had a 48km detour as the bridge had washed away and had to go back the long way around, which was 7 L of diesel as the Troopy is very thirsty in this heat, and now with only a half tank of diesel, it was a huge error as I won't  have enough to get to the next fuel stop, so am hoping I can get some from the national parks guys, if not I don't  know what I will do.
The road turned from bad to horrendous  and it took us an hour and a half to go 25km, but the Troopy eat it up, no problem unlike my passenger !  Got to camp after 9 hours and no lunch or water and no fuel to spare.
The offices were huge and lots of staff and vehicles, was really surprised as the camp is so hard to get to but they use the ferry to get to Kariba Town which is so much easier.
The campsite was on the edge of the dam all to ourselves with nice ablutions and elephants wandering around around us and a visit from a hyena. We stayed two nights ($ 102) and I begged for fuel and they sold me 29L at $1.71L. I guess the war in Ukraine has pushed up the prices, so they tell me, not having wifi since Vic Falls I have no idea what's going on out there, which is fine with me, I have my own problems,  like trying to keep up with this blog ! 
Made a beautiful Mopani fire , takes forever to get coles for my steak and some boerewors, which I cooked to perfection finally and chugged some almost frozen beers. Windhoek Lager are only 330ml so like three gulps and you onto the next one which thankfully I had and they are only 4% abv so it's like carbonated water, you can drink all day, like my old neighbor Bob, well he claimed he only had one at lunch time ! Sure Bob.

Thursday 10th March 2022
DEPART TO KARIBA TOWN     380km  9hrs

Heard rain so jumped out of the tent and it was only 5am and by the time I had my pants on it had stopped, so we packed up and left at 6:30am. One helluva ride out for 70km to the junction, well I enjoyed it, the Troopy once again lapped it up. I didn't  realize it was that faraway,  looking on Maps.me it looked a lot closer than 380kmbut once again I was wrong but after nine hours we arrived at Lomagundi Camp in Kariba Town, which is a private like boat club and they have a few camping spots on nice green grass and lots of shady trees for $24 a night.
Had to run into town and got a sim card and the to the grocery store for some beer and chips. Didn't  eat the whole day again so went to the restaurant at the camp and chowed down on some peri peri chicken and chips with a few Zambezi's to wash it down.

Did a dam tour with a guide for three hours and is sad to hear how the tourists have all dissappeared and resorts closed and the suffering it has caused.
The lake is 280km long with a shoreline of 2000 km and the widest part is 32km.  
A French company is doing a massive repair job to the wall which will take five years and is being funded by the world bank, almost take as long to fix it as long as it took to build it by the Italians in the late fifties.


Tuesday, March 1, 2022

SAVUTI - KASANE 84km

So after the game drive, we had a bite to eat where Fred was staying and then departed around noon for Kasane. Exited at Chobe at Ghoha gate, and then immediately was in thick sand for 30km straight, but with my tyres at 1.9bar was able to get through in 2 wheel drive mostly in 3rd gear.
Got to the cross road and was light sand, easy,please for about 25km and then on to asphalt all the way back into Chobe Kgoma gate. I went off the main road down to the river and followed it up all the way to Kasane, seeing many elephants along the way.
Camped at Thebebe campsite, got the same spot when I was here on my bike in 2018, right by the river. Am sorry we did not go to Senyati camp, as I was advised to do but circumstances didn't allow it. Had a pizza at the bar and then turned in for the night.
Got our covid rest early Thursday morning at the immigration/border post ($45) . Ended up at Chobe Safari Lodge where we lounged around and had lunch, then got the bakkie washed and then did the three hour boat safari and saw the normal culprits eating and sleeping and grunting.
Got back to camp and went to Nando's for some chicken and then that was another day done. 
So my next blog is Roy in Zimbabwe 🇿🇼 and you are not advised to go there as it is the same boring dribble of a blog.

KWHAI TO SAVUTI 91km




Monday 21st February 

Left Khwai earlier than planned and headed for Savuti after coffee and a rusk, the morning ritual. As we got on to the main dirt road we came across a heard of elephants in a large waterhole where I parked at the edge of the water and watched for ages as they kept on coming, the youngsters headed straight in and played with each other as the parents watched on , not happy where I had parked.

We reached Savuti around 3:30pm and then had some serious thunder and lightning for about forty five minutes ,then set up camp which consists of parking the Troopy level and taking out our black boxes which contain food, utensils and clothing. The fridge works great keeping stuff real cold and the lithium battery lasts about a day without being charged.
Fred found a lodge nearby where he booked in and lived in luxury. The Germans were in camp but only could stay one night and were short on fuel, but were able to buy some after a bit of bribery and J&B. We had a nice braai and the night sky was crystal clear with all the stars ablaze.
The following day Charmain  and I went on an early game drive but didn't see didly squat ,so headed  over to Fred's lodge for lunch with him which was a real treat.
We joined Fred and Obie on a game drive and got to see a magnificent lion on top of a dune, but couldn't find the other three that were there earlier in the day or the wild dogs that they saw in the morning. 

We joined Fred and Obie on their 6am game drive and it was off the charts. We came across a pride of 12 lions all laying together, so Obie got us situated up close where we just sat and watched them interact and stroll around. Then maybe ten elephants which were in the hood realized they were heading straight into them and began to charge at full speed as they had some babies amongst them. It was unreal how they chased the one lion away and the pride just stood and watched and then a stranger on his own came by real close in full charge and trumpeting angrily. The lions made a half hearted attempt  to go after him, but then were all spread out, but three of them stalked two elephants but also gave up.

We then left and had some coffee and biscuits under a Boabab tree where we missed the two cheetahs that had been sighted there earlier. 


MAUN - KWHAI 137km

SATURDAY 19 FEBRUARY 2022

Last night the music played on till 2am and cars were tearing down the road next to the campsite and sleep was minimal.
Washed my bakkie  and we set off for Kwhai Community Campsite directly  NE through Mababe Gate of Moremi N.P. and then NW for a short while. Roads were dirt all the way , averaging 30km an hour. We came across a watering hole with lots of elephants around and watched them for almost an hour and then continued on and missed the turning  to the campsite. Met two young  German guys, Sam and Tim, also looking for the camp and then kept on meeting them at the other campsites as we headed north.
The campsite is right by the river with lots of hippos and Elephant, the ablutions were decent and a short walk from camp.
On Sunday went for a game drive up to Khwai and didn't see much, the highlight was a chameleon on the roadside which I was photographing when a couple stopped and told us of a dead hippo nearby, which we found, but only vultures munching on it.
Back in camp we had elephant all around us all evening coming down to drink and cool off. 
The Germans were at the campsite next to ours and they went at night to see the hippo carcass for three hours where there were fifteen hyenas eating away at it.  They also saw an elephant with a severed trunk, the lower piece still dangling and it was a fresh wound from what they could see. Two of the hyenas had snares around their necks and it will only be a matter of time and they will succumb.

TO HWANGE AND DOWN TO KARIBA DAM

To Hwange NP    210km.      2nd March 2022 Fred left for Cape Town today, so we departed after breakfast and said our good byes after three ...